Amashanyarazi

"Ibyiyumvo" byingenzi cyane byo gusaza kwuruhu ni gukama, bigaragazwa nubushyuhe buke no kubura ubushobozi bwo kugumana ubushuhe. Uruhu ruba rucuramye, rukomeye kandi rugahinduka. Ikintu cyitwa hygroscopique cyane kigamije kuzuza ubushuhe bwuruhu no kwirinda gukama byitwa humectant. Uburyo bwo kuvura uruhu, kimwe ni ukunyunyuza amazi; ikindi ni barrière (defence layer) ibuza ubushuhe bwimbere kudashira. Ubushuhe bwinjira muri bariyeri iyo imikorere yayo isanzwe ni 2.9g / (m2 h-1) ± 1.9g / (m2 h-1), kandi iyo yatakaye burundu, iba 229g / (m2 h-1) ± 81g / (m2 h-1), byerekana ko inzitizi ari ngombwa.

Ukurikije uburyo bwo gutanga amazi, hateguwe ibintu bitandukanye bitanga amazi meza. Bikunze gukoreshwa cyane harimo polyoli, amide, aside ya lactique na sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, kolagen, ibikomoka kuri chitine nibindi.

(1) Amashanyarazi
Glycerine ni amazi meza ya viscous yoroheje, ataboneka mumazi, methanol, etanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl inzoga, Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol na Phenol nibindi bintu. Glycerine ni ikintu cyingirakamaro cyo kuvomera ibikoresho bya O / W ubwoko bwa emulisifike yo kwisiga. Nibikoresho byingenzi byamavuta yo kwisiga. Irashobora kandi gukoreshwa nka moisturizer ya poro irimo ifu, igira ingaruka yoroshye kandi isiga uruhu. Byongeye kandi, glycerine ikoreshwa cyane mubicuruzwa byinyoza amenyo hamwe namavuta ya hydrophilique, kandi nikintu cyingenzi mubicuruzwa bya hydrogel.
Propylene glycol ni ibara ritagira ibara, rifite umucyo, risa neza, amazi ya hygroscopique. Ntibishobora kuboneka mumazi, acetone, Ethyl acetate na chloroform, kandi bigashonga muri alcool na ether. Propylene glycol ikoreshwa cyane mu kwisiga. Irashobora gukoreshwa nkibikoresho byo guhanagura hamwe nubushuhe kubicuruzwa bitandukanye bya emulisile nibicuruzwa byamazi. Irashobora gukoreshwa nkiyoroshya nubushuhe bwoza amenyo mugihe uhujwe na glycerol na sorbitol. Irashobora gukoreshwa nkigenzura ryamazi mubicuruzwa bisiga irangi.
1,3-Butanediol ni ibara ritagira ibara kandi ridafite impumuro nziza ifite amazi meza, irashobora gukuramo amazi ahwanye na 12.5% ​​(RH50%) cyangwa 38.5% (RH80%) ya misa yayo. Irashobora gukoreshwa cyane nka moisturizer mumavuta yo kwisiga, amavuta, amavuta yo kwisiga hamwe nu menyo. Mubyongeyeho, 1,3-butanediol igira ingaruka za antibacterial. Sorbitol ni ifu yera ya kristalline ikozwe muri glucose nkibikoresho fatizo. Ifite uburyohe buke. Sorbitol irashobora gushonga byoroshye mumazi, gushonga gake muri Ethanol, acide acetike, fenol na acetamide, ariko ntigishobora gushonga mubindi bimera. Sorbitol ifite hygroscopique nziza, umutekano, hamwe nimiti ihamye. Yakoreshejwe cyane mubijyanye nimiti ya buri munsi. Irashobora gukoreshwa nkibikoresho fatizo bitagira ionic surfactants kandi birashobora no gukoreshwa nka cream mumyanya yinyo na cosmetike.
Polyethylene glycol ni polymer ibora amazi yateguwe hiyongereyeho buhoro buhoro okiside ya Ethylene n'amazi cyangwa glycol ya Ethylene. Irashobora kandi gushonga mumashanyarazi akomeye ya polar kandi ikagira urukurikirane rw'ibiro bito kugeza hagati. Ubwoko bwibicuruzwa burashobora gukoreshwa nkibikoresho byamazi ya elegitoronike yo kwisiga. Polyethylene glycol ikoreshwa cyane mu kwisiga no mu nganda zikora imiti kubera imiterere yayo myiza nko gukemura amazi, kutagira umubiri, ubwitonzi, amavuta, ububobere bwuruhu, no koroshya uruhu. Uburemere buke bwa polyethylene glycol ifite ubushobozi bwo gukurura no kubika amazi mu kirere, kandi ifite plastike kandi irashobora gukoreshwa nka humectant; uko uburemere bwa molekile bugereranije bwiyongera, hygroscopicity yayo igabanuka cyane. Uburemere buke bwa polyethylene glycol burashobora gukoreshwa cyane mumiti ya buri munsi, imiti, imiti, gukora impapuro nizindi nganda nkamavuta cyangwa yoroshye.

(2) Acide Lactique na sodium lactate
Acide Lactique ni aside kama ibaho muri kamere. Nibicuruzwa byanyuma muri metabolism yibinyabuzima bya anaerobic. Ni umutekano kandi ntabwo ari uburozi. Acide ya Lactique nayo ni aside nyamukuru ikurura amazi mubintu bisanzwe bitanga amazi (NMF) ya epidermis yumuntu, kandi ibiyirimo ni 12%. Acide lactique na lactate bigira ingaruka kumiterere yimiterere yibintu birimo proteyine, kandi bigira plastike kandi byoroshya poroteyine. Kubwibyo, aside ya lactique na sodium lactate irashobora gutuma uruhu rworoha, rukabyimba kandi rukongera ubworoherane. Ni aside irike nziza yo kwisiga. Itsinda rya carboxyl ya molekile ya acide ya lactique ifite isano nziza kumisatsi nuruhu. Lodate ya Sodium ni nziza cyane, kandi ubushobozi bwayo bwogukomera burakomeye kuruta ibimera bisanzwe nka glycerine. Acide Lactique na sodium lactate ikora igisubizo gishobora guhindura pH y'uruhu. Mu kwisiga, aside ya lactique na lactate ya sodiumi ikoreshwa cyane cyane nka kondereti no koroshya uruhu cyangwa koroshya umusatsi, aside irike kugirango ihindure pH, cream na lisansi yo kwita ku ruhu, shampo na kondereti zo kwita kumisatsi nibindi bicuruzwa byita kumisatsi. Irashobora kandi gukoreshwa mugukata ibicuruzwa no kumesa.

(3) Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na muri make) nigicuruzwa cyangirika cya fibroin igiteranyo cya epidermal granular layer. Ibiri mubintu bisanzwe byuruhu byuruhu ni 12%. Imikorere ya physiologique ni ugukora uruhu rwa stratum corneum yoroshye. Kugabanuka kwa sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate muri stratum corneum irashobora gutuma uruhu rukomera kandi rwumye. Ubucuruzi bwa sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ni ibara ritagira ibara, ridafite impumuro nziza, alkaline nkeya ibonerana mumazi, kandi hygroscopicity yayo irarenze cyane ya glycerine, propylene glycol, na sorbitol. Iyo ubuhehere bugereranije ari 65%, hygroscopique iba hejuru ya 56% nyuma yiminsi 20, kandi hygroscopique irashobora kugera kuri 60% nyuma yiminsi 30; kandi mubihe bimwe, hygroscopicity ya glycerine, propylene glycol, na sorbitol ni 40% nyuma yiminsi 30. , 30%, 10%. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ikoreshwa cyane cyane nka humectant na conditioner, ikoreshwa mumavuta yo kwisiga, kugabanya amavuta yo kwisiga, amavuta, amavuta yo kwisiga, kandi ikoreshwa no mu menyo yinyo na shampo.

(4) Acide Hyaluronic
Acide ya hyaluronike ni amorphous yera ikuwe mubice byinyamaswa. Nibice bisubiramo disaccharide ya (1 → 3) -2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D (1 → 4) -OB3-D aside glucuronic Acide polymer ihimbye ifite misile igereranije ya 200.000 kugeza kuri miliyoni. Acide ya Hyaluronic ni ibinyabuzima bisanzwe bya biohimiki bifite ibinyabuzima bifite amazi meza, bifite umutekano kandi bidafite uburozi, nta kurakara kuruhu rwabantu. Acide ya Hyaluronic irashonga mumazi ariko ntigishobora gushonga mumashanyarazi. Bitewe no kurambura no kubyimba imiterere ya molekuline muri sisitemu yo gukemura amazi, iracyafite ubukonje bwinshi kumurengera muke, kandi irashobora guhuza amazi menshi, bityo ikaba ifite imiterere myiza yubushuhe, viscoelasticitike kandi ikinjira cyane.
Acide Hyaluronic ni ubwoko bwa moisturizer hamwe nibikorwa byiza byo kwisiga. Mu kwisiga, birashobora gutanga ingaruka nziza kuruhu, bigatuma uruhu rworoha kandi rworoshye, kandi bigatinda gusaza kwuruhu. Ibyinshi mu bicuruzwa bya hydrogel byisosiyete birimo aside hyaluronike cyangwa bigakoreshwa hamwe nayo, kandi bigeze kubisubizo byiza nyuma yo kwerekanwa kumasoko.

(5) Hydrolyzed collagen
Kolagen nayo yitwa proteine ​​glial. Ni poroteyine yera ya fibrous igizwe nuruhu rwinyamaswa, karitsiye, imitsi, amagufwa, imiyoboro yamaraso, cornea nizindi ngingo zihuza. Mubisanzwe bingana na 30% byintungamubiri zose zinyamaswa. Ari mubintu byumye byuruhu nuduce twa dermal. Kolagen ibarirwa kuri 90%.
Kolagen ni intungamubiri za poroteyine zigize uruhu rwinyamaswa n'imitsi. Ifite isano nziza nuruhu numusatsi. Uruhu numusatsi bifite uburyo bwiza bwo kubyakira, bikabemerera kwinjira mumbere yimisatsi, nibindi, byerekana Affinity nziza na efficacy. Nyuma ya hydrolysis, urunigi rwa polypeptide ya kolagen irimo amatsinda ya hydrophilique nka amino, carboxyl na hydroxyl, bishobora kwerekana ububobere bwiza kuruhu. Hydrolyzed collagen nayo igira ingaruka zo kugabanya ibibara byuruhu no gukuraho iminkanyari iterwa nimirasire ya ultraviolet. Kubwibyo, uruhare rwa hydrolyzed collagen rugaragarira cyane cyane mubushuhe, hafi, kwera kwa frackle, kurwanya gusaza nibindi. Mu nyama zinyamanswa, kolagen ni ikintu kidashonga mumazi, ariko gifite ubushobozi bukomeye bwo guhuza amazi. Hydrolysis ya kolagen irashobora gukorwa hifashishijwe aside, alkali cyangwa enzyme, hamwe na hydrolyzed hydrolazed collagen irashobora kuboneka, ikoreshwa cyane mumavuta yo kwisiga hamwe nubwiza bwubuvuzi.

Ubundi bwoko bwa humectants burimo chitine nibiyikomokaho, glucose ester humectants, hamwe nibihingwa nka aloe na algae.